27. Feb. 2019 / by admin / Pool Maintenance / 0 comments

What Are the Pros and Cons of Saltwater Pools?

A saltwater pool is an alternative to a traditional chlorine pool. Although you don’t add chlorine tablets to a saltwater pool, it does still contain chlorine. It just has a smaller amount that’s generated through the filter system. Some people find this type of pool less harsh on their hair, eyes, and skin than a chlorinated pool.

Saltwater pool vs. chlorinated pool

A saltwater pool gets cleaned using a filtering system called a salt chlorine generator. The system uses electricity to turn salt into chlorine, which cleans the pool.

In a chlorinated pool, chlorine tablets or granules are physically added on a regular basis for the same purpose.

In both pool types, it’s important to still check the pH levels and alkalinity of the pool so it stays sanitized and the chemicals stay balanced.

Cost

The cost of a saltwater pool is initially more than a chlorine pool. That’s because a saltwater chlorination system can cost around $1,400 to $2,000, plus installation. But over time, it may save you money because you won’t have to regularly buy chlorine tablets.

Maintenance

A saltwater pool is easier to maintain than a traditional pool. But pool owners still need to check pH and alkalinity levels weekly.

Call us for a Free estimate (954) 979-6444

OUR SERVICE AREA

We serve the following areas

Parkland, Pompano Beach, Lighthouse Point, Margate, Coral Springs, Davie, Plantation, Weston, Boca Raton, Boynton Beach, Delray Beach, West Plam Beach, Highland Beach, Fort Lauderdale

And More Surrounding Cities.

17. May. 2018 / by admin / Uncategorized / 0 comments

Pool Start-Up Chemicals Needed for a Fresh Fill

Follow these simple steps to get your new pool ready:

Make sure the filtration system is operational.
Based on temperature and type of finish, fill the pool to the middle of the skimmer or specified water level without interruption and as rapidly as possible with clean water, to help prevent a bowl ring.
Be sure to place the hose in the deepest area with a clean rag on the end to prevent damage to the surface material.
Start the filtration system immediately when the pool is filled to the middle of the skimmer or specified water level.
Your local water supply may be acidic, murky, extremely hard or even cloudy. Once your pool is full, test the water using your test kit or test strips to get a good idea of what you’ll be working with.
Test the pool in multiple spots, at least 600mm – 900mm below the surface to make sure the readings are right. In addition:
At no time should any person or pets be allowed in the pool during the fill
To prevent streaking, do not allow any external sources of water to enter the pool
Do not swim in the pool until the water is properly balanced
Test the water for:
pH
Alkalinity
Calcium hardness
Metals.

IMPORTANT NOTE: ALWAYS ADD THE CHEMICAL TO THE WATER, NEVER WATER TO THE CHEMICAL.

The first couple of weeks after starting up your pool is the time to make sure everything is running right. You will need to check your water readings more often in the beginning.

Test the pool water and balance it to the recommended levels below as soon as the pool is filled:

pH: 7.2 – 7.8 (ideally 7.4)
Total Alkalinity (TA): 100 – 200ppm (ideally 120)
Calcium Hardness (CH): 200 – 300ppm (ideally 250)
Free Chlorine: 2 – 3ppm
Cyanuric Acid (CYA): 30 – 50ppm
Be sure to:

Allow some time for the water to balance out
Take it slow and add only one chemical at a time
Allow for one full turnover (usually 12 hours) before re-testing and make another adjustment if needed

Addressing pH in Your Pool

The first thing you need to address is the pH of the pool. If your pH is out of range, nothing you add to your pool will work efficiently, including chlorine. The balance of your pool water depends on proper pH to function correctly. pH directly affects a whole variety of factors, and a good pH falls within a narrow band of 7.2 – 7.6. Follow the recommended amount (based on your pool volume size), add the amount you need and then re-test after the one full turnover (usually 12 hours).

Sanitising Your Pool

The next start-up chemical you will need is sanitiser, the most common of which is chlorine. Chlorine comes in many easy-to-use forms – solid tablets, liquid and granules – and is available from several retail outlets. A saltwater chlorinator is another very popular option for automatic chlorine production, as it is, in effect, a mini chlorine gas factory.

At first you’ll add chlorine in what’s called “shock” levels – an extra heavy dose to start your pool off. A shock dose coupled with extra circulation will ensure that all the water gets treated properly in the beginning. Keep swimmers out of the pool while shocking, as chlorine at elevated levels can irritate mucous membranes and cause general discomfort. Ensure all equipment like pool cleaners and pool covers are removed during this process.

Addressing Alkalinity in Your Pool

Now it’s time to keep the water hardness in check, otherwise known as alkalinity. Think of pH as an air conditioner that cools your home and alkalinity is the thermostat that adjusts your temperature. The two are linked, meaning one changes with the other. Alkalinity is important since water that is too hard negatively affects your pool pump seals, o-rings, jet nozzles and immersed equipment.

Lastly, make sure you add some algaecide for good measure. Most people think algaecide is only for when you see algae. However, it should also be used as a preventative treatment. Use an algaecide before you have a need for it, and keep the nasties at bay.

2. May. 2016 / by admin / Luxury Pools / 36,698 comments

Hurricane Pool Preparation

1. Do Not Empty

Drainage is almost always in the design of the pool. Water in the pool provides weight to keep the pool in the ground. An empty pool can float or pop out of the ground due to pressure from excessive ground water caused by heavy rains.

2. Turn Off Power

Circuit breakers at the main electrical panel should be turned off. Pump, motors, lighting, chlorinators and heaters . should not operate in the storm.

3. Protect Electric Pool Equipment

Wrap the Pump, Motor, Time Clock ,light transformers and electric Heaters with waterproof plastic. Tie securely in place to prevent sand and water from entering. If flooding is expected, disconnect these devices and store them in a dry place.

4. Remove Loose Items

Chair, Tables, Toys, Pool tools or other loose items can become dangerous projectiles in high winds. It’s best to store them inside away from storm. Avoid throwing furniture into pool, unless it is a last resort. If so, gently place objects in pool to avoid damage and staining.

5. Add Extra Chlorine to the Pool

To prevent contamination from debris and excessive storm water, add Granular Shock preferably.

6. Do Not Cover Pool

Storms can cause falling branches and other debris that can damage Pool Covers. It’s easier to remove debris from the pool than it is to replace a cover.

7. Protect Screen Enclosure if you have one

Providing a vent for wind to flow through can help prevent damage. Possibly remove screen panels on opposite sides of the enclosure.

13. Apr. 2016 / by admin / Pool Design / 37,066 comments

What’s the Cost to Run a Pool Heater?

Installing a heater extends the swimming season, especially in the colder months and requires an upfront cost, but what’s the cost to run a heater? Having received this question many times we’ve decided to break it down for you below.

Natural Gas:

One of the most popular options is natural gas heaters as they heats your pool very quickly. These are pretty self explanatory and use a plumbed gas line from your home to heat up your pool water as it returns into your pool.

Natural Gas burns about 1 therm per 100,000 BTU’s per hour (British Thermal Units).
At the time of this article the cost of gas is about 1.10 per therm.

That means an average pool heater between 300,000 and 400,000 BTU’s will cost anywhere from $3.30 to $4.40 per hour to heat your pool.

Propane Pool Heaters:

Propane Heaters are very similar to gas in the way they function. They heat your pool very quickly as does natural gas but with the use of propane.

Propane uses about 1 gallon every 100,000 BTU’s per hour (British Thermal Units).
The cost of propane at the time of this article is about $2.30 per gallon.
This means an average pool heater between 300,000 and 400,000 BTU’s will cost anywhere from $6.90 to $9.20 per hour to heat your pool.

Heat Pumps:

Heat Pumps re a great alternative to gas and work by grabbing the existing air around the unit to heat your swimming pool. Because it utilizes the air around the unit, it saves on energy and is more cost effective. The downside is they become ineffective in temps below 50 degrees.

Heat Pumps use about 5 kilowatts per 100,000 BTU’s (British thermal units) per hour.
At the time of this article the cost of electricity is about $.63 per 5 kilowatts of energy.
This means an average heat pump, requiring less BTU’s (around 100,000) will cost $.63 per hour to heat your pool.

Solar Covers:

Solar Covers work by trapping the heat from the sun to heat your pool water. The solar cover then prevents the heated water from evaporating from your pool.

Solar Covers can be used over and over again and cut down on heating costs dramatically. Depending on the size of pool, you can pick one up for pretty cheap. Plan on spending anywhere from $50.00 to $300.00 for a solar cover.

Solar Heaters:

Solar heaters are a good alternative to traditional heaters as they use sunlight to heat your pool and require little installation. Solar heaters contain channels that route water back into your pool. The channels trap heat from sunlight, creating hot water as it returns back into your pool.

Solar heaters don’t cost anything to run and are easy to install. Depending on the size and location of your pool, plan on spending around $60.00 to $400.00 on a solar heater system.